Dublin’s food scene is burgeoning. I think it was the biggest reason I had decided to go. I kept reading how full of great food it is, how much potential they have due to their agriculture capacity. The swing towards diverse and refined dining options in Dublin has been a fairly recent movement. I’ve read that many chefs who leave Ireland for training in hot spots like London and New York take their newly gained skills and experiences back home with them after. As they return to their Irish roots, they work in, or open restaurants of their own, often in diverse Dublin.
Many people don’t know what Irish cuisine consists is. But truly, the days are gone when Irish cuisine was all potatoes and generally bland, a notion many people still have. The question I fielded a lot before and after my trip was, “so what is Irish cuisine?”. And honestly, I don’t really know, but I like what I see happening. I think Ireland is remaking the cuisine it’s known for, but not severing its roots. And with Dublin’s rapid increase in diversity, you can find a variety of different cuisines. Though, perhaps, my favorite part about the food scene in Dublin is the emphasis on local, seasonal, and free-range.
Was every restaurant I ate at good? No. Did I strike out a few times? Yes. But next time I show up in Dublin, I will be returning to my favorite spots and I’ll be eager to see what else has popped up. The food and restaurant scene is growing fast! Below, is a tiny rant about every restaurant I ate at.
Host
Host housed me for my first meal, and honorary last meal in Dublin. I’ll forever think about their supreme buffala burrata, with peaches, olive oil, and mint. I love the simplicity of their menu, and how it can change daily. Read about my first visit to Host, here. For the second dinner, I ordered the pumpkin capelacci (again), cacio é pepe, “leaves” (leafy greens, mandolin fennel and radish, and shaved parmesan), fried potatoes, rump steak (tri-tip), and Dover sole. The sole was prepared impeccably. It was my favorite dish from that meal, and one I will continue to try replicating at home.
Reservations recommended.
Green Bench Café
The Green Bench Café has a spontaneous nature. For lunch each day, they publish the 6-7 item menu in the window minutes before opening at noon. I got there at 11:45 and waited for opening with a few other hungry souls. Eventually, the line got fairly long– a good sign. There’s something I trust about a place that has the confidence and drive to change its menus daily, reflecting the season’s produce or available provisions.
I very quickly settled on the free-range & local (beef) meatball sandwich. The Green Bench staff work quickly. As a result, the line dwindles at a good pace. You can tell this is a trusted lunch haunt. Many people in business-dress line up with colleagues and friends, for a sandwich lunch with a surprise element.
My take on the sandwich: The sliced sourdough was toasted and buttery, soft and fresh, but there was no way it could hold the contents in for long. The sandwich is a full and slippery one. The meatballs were very good, and not dense at all, which surprised me. The meatballs were really crumbly and airy. It was sauced with tomato sauce and a toasted seed pesto. Scamorzza cheese contributed to relentless cheese pulls. They used grated celeriac for the slaw base which provided more of a firmness than a crunchiness. I really liked the use of celeriac, and I noticed it’s commonly used in Dublin. The slaw gave the sandwich some structure, but it was too heavy on the mayonnaise property. Still, definitely a lunch option in the future, and the changing menu keeps it exciting!
It’s messy, it falls apart quickly. Eat fast.
There is no place to sit and eat at Green Bench Café, but don’t let that stop you from getting a good meal here. Everything is made daily (bread, sauces, soups, salads, etc.). The farms that supply all of their meats are published on their website.
Clanbrassil House
Clanbrassil House was such a fun experience for me. From the vibe, the service, the friendly staff, and the food, it was one of my favorite meals. You know when there are some restaurants you go to and you just know they will take care of you? That you can trust them? That’s how it felt at Clanbrassil House. Read about my 8-course meal here.
Reservations recommended.
The Fumbally
The Fumbally is a cafe serving a small menu of breakfast/brunch eats, fresh pressed juices, coffee, and teas. They also have organic and biodynamic wines for sale that line a whole wall, which adds an elevated element that says you’re not just at a crunchy cafe. Or maybe you are just at a crunchy cafe, but the wall adds a nice color scheme anyway.
The cafe has floor-to-ceiling windows, and a little market section selling dairy, meats, produce, and dry goods. I actually ate here twice because the first time made such an impression on me for breakfast/brunch food. Back in the states, you won’t find me eating breakfast/brunch at a restaurant unless I have to OR their eggs are free-range. But really, breakfast is my least favorite reason to eat at a restaurant. But, The Fumbally was really good! Both times, I got Tuscan beans stewed in tomato and carmelized garlic sauce, over a thick slice of rustic house-made sourdough toast, with a fried egg on top, and bacon bits. The bacon bits are thick-cut and so delicious. I highly recommend. The juices are great and come to your table sealed in a little glass jar. The service is lacking but the staff is nice, so just bring a book or a friend. And don’t be on a tight schedule, or take it personally.
Matt the Thresher
In my preparatory pre-trip research I read that Ireland, especially the west coast, has amazing oysters. So, on my third night I took to my computer to find a good place to get some. I chose Matt the Thresher for the vibe (comparatively), and the accolades of good service and fresh seafood. I think I saw that Anthony Bourdain had eaten here and opined his approval and that settled it for me. I expect him to be an honest man. May he rest in peace.
I’ve had some great oysters in California, specifically. And my cousin is the head chef at one of the Hog Island Oyster Co. locations. So, again, my standards are up there. I was excited to try these local ones. They served two kinds and I ordered 3 of each. Carlingford Lough oysters (£3.50 each), and Connemara Galway oysters (£3.50 each).
Their oyster mignonette had a unique angle. It was so good, I could drink it. Judging by taste, but nothing absolute, I think it consisted of a small amount of soy sauce, cucumber, vinegar/sherry, lemon, cilantro, and ginger. The salad I got had too much dressing, but surprisingly, it didn’t make it inedible (usually overdressed salads are a full stop for me), only slightly less enjoyable. The crab was like crab salad (mixed together), not whole pieces which I feel they should elude to in the menu description, but I still liked it. The shrimp seemed like it was more of a langoustine. I ate the whole salad. But the oysters were my favorite part. Both of the wines I picked out were delicious.
The service was very good. I would definitely go here again if I had a craving for some oysters.
Reservation recommended.
Tang Cafe
Tang is a fast-casual spot, where they make you your bowl or wrap behind the glass partition as you tell them what you want included. It’s a quaint spot, but seemingly popular. There were people in and out when I was there on a Saturday late morning. I wasn’t too impressed with the food, but it wasn’t a bad spot by any means. I think I was riding a high from the previous great places I had eaten at. The Mediterranean cafe serves large portions and the items are freshly prepared. Another cool angle is Tang’s sustainability approach, so I definitely see the appeal and think the concept is successful enough. Like many cafes in Dublin this one has its values. I think it’s a good spot to stop quickly to get something in your stomach, or if you’re heading back to the office or hopping on a train somewhere.
Yamamori Izakaya
I debated even including this place as I don’t have good things to say about it, but this site is not to endorse everywhere that I liked. It’s about what and where I ate and my honest assessment. Unfortunately, there are more unimpressive restaurants and carelessly created food than there are good restaurants and thoughtfully prepared eats. There’s no doubt that they have a good concept and little legitimate competition in a place like Dublin. Read more about Japanese Izakaya here.
It’s obviously a popular place, as it was bustling when I entered. My visit here was short-lived. One of my first red flags was the sushi bar contained pre-cut fish. I’m from California, where we have a lot of sushi spots, not all of them are stellar, but many are. I’ve had bad sushi and great sushi. On the spectrum of Sushi Snob, I’m right of the middle. I’m hesitant to seek out new spots for fear I will put a less-than-delicious cut in my mouth and be ruined. I vet sushi. Hard. And when I have great sushi I remember it: Tokyo (obviously), Honolulu, Seattle, Alameda, Ca, San Francisco. My vetting system failed in this instance. As I said, I was riding high on my previous successful dining choices, and I calculated that Ireland is an island, near Scotland where a lot of fresh seafood and fish *can* come from. I didn’t really consider their fisheries don’t provide the classic sushi cuts, but if it’s fresh I’m all for trying. I’ll speed it up… the service was bad, we ordered a ton of food, and it all came out at once (I dislike this). The cooked fish had no flavor, except an unfavorable fish taste. The “wagyu” was fibrous and tough, making me doubt it was actually wagyu. If I was hesitant to eat the sushi before, now I’m scared. I didn’t see any of the “sushi chefs” cutting fish, only the pre-sliced pieces in the sushi bar window. The slices on the nigiri were dull and looked dry, I can still see them. I took one more sip of sake and left shortly after the frightening nigiri. And will never return.
As I said, the concept is fun in a place like Dublin. They have drinks, small plates, music, and the basement is a little bar/club. But I just can’t endorse it.
Pi
If you go to Pi, just get the Margherita. As you can see, I’m very critical with food. But that’s how I can help you. In my opinion, it’s a decent spot to just get a Margherita pizza to-go if everything else is closed or you are craving. I passed a ‘NY pizza by the slice’ spot open late night, that seemed pretty popular but didn’t order anything, so you’ve got options. Pi isn’t bad, but it didn’t impress me in any way. It was bland to me and it should have been cooked a bit longer. When I eat pizza I want to feel wowed.
Doolally
Doolally was also one of the chosen ones that I ate at twice. The Lamb Rogan Josh was amazing, with very tender meat and aromatic and deep curry, perfect for ladling over long grain basmati or lapping up with a steamy piece of buttery naan. The Kheema Pav is an absolute must-order. The mince meat is so succulent and the brioche it comes with is fluffy and gently toasted with butter, so it melts in your mouth, and has you reaching for more. The butter chicken (a classic order for me), was good, but the second time I didn’t order it and opted for the lamb curry, again, instead. I liked the black lentils better than the yellow, but this is usually the case for me, as the black lentils come out so much creamier. The lamb chop kebab was also a favorite. Doolally has a good atmosphere with lots of energy, and it seems to have a solid following. Sunday night was full, as was Monday. The service was great Sunday, but a different waiter (and side of the restaurant) brought about different service with it. The manager was attentive when there was a small problem though, which is good hospitality in my opinion. They serve inventive cocktails, beer, wine, and wine on tap.
Reservations recommended.
Tir Deli Hatch Street
I went here the morning of my departure for a quick bite because airport food is my literal enemy. I despise it. The value for dollar is one of the most atrocious things I’ve ever witnessed. I plan to write a rant about it soon.
I got a bacon and *free-range* egg sandwich on a pan de mie roll. The bacon made the sandwich so salty, so I just took it out and it was very satisfying overall. They add Irish white cheddar, and it’s so melty you might think it’s mayo? But it’s cheese. The bread pieces are lightly toasted. Honestly? I scarfed mine.