As an American, the idea of eating anything other than a pack of skittles or some Hot Cheetos from a convenience store is heresy. On reflection, I think that characterization is less an ‘American’ thing, and more a ‘me’ thing. I know someone eats those slowly rotating sausages at 7-11, but it has never been and will never be me. I look at them in abstract horror as I wait in line to purchase a bottle of water or some snacks for a road trip. My friend once worked with a girl who actually bought and ate SUSHI from 7-11, and (no lie) ended up on a stretcher being rolled out of her work cubicle by paramedics.
Enter Lawson, Family Mart, and 7-11. Three of Japan’s convenience stores. These are the ones I primarily see in Okinawa and Tokyo (where I have spent most of my time in Japan). They cover streets and corners indiscriminately, coloring their turf with universally recognizable color schemes. As of February 2022, there were 14,656 Lawsons, 16,541 Family Marts (as of October 2022), and over 20,000 7-11 locations (2018 data). Each one sells relatively the same prepared foods, perhaps with some brand differentiation. Although, I don’t know for sure if the chicken they get is from the same source. Near to the registers is the case with the hot food: the chicken, croquettes, hash brown paddies, etc.
Most people I ask can readily single out one of the chains as having the best chicken. It took me having several pieces of Lawson and Family Mart chicken eaten in front of me to finally have a bite for myself, and after the first bite I became less discriminate and more excited to indulge in one. Although I still don’t want to have a whole piece to myself, I like having a bite or two. But more than the taste itself (I’ve had much better fried chicken), the realization that you can get edible food from a convenience store felt like a token of eating freedom. There’s just something about it. Although, I must confess that there is a part of me that still slightly recoils as I go in for a bite, waiting for some terrible texture or chicken-y taste. My sensors alert as I chew.
Maybe it’s just an illusion that this convenience store food is ‘better’ than that of the states. And how would I know? I’ve never eaten the chicken from a gas station store in America. Eating at Lawson or Family Mart leaves me with a lot of questions about my own perceptions, and more objectively, Japanese poultry cultivation. I think it’s likely that the chicken sourced for these stores are conventionally raised and mass produced. I’m not familiar with Japanese animal agriculture methods as I am with American methods. I did some light research and saw several sources highlighting Japan’s use of battery cages still. I hope it’s a small percentage, if any. I’m sure there are some farms and companies that utilize more humane and free-range methods, though discerning where, what, and who is out of my scope for now.
As I read further into it and reflect, allowing myself to really be objective and realistic about it, my self-inflated bubble of hope pops. Even as a relatively small island, I suppose it would be impractical to have free-range chicken be a source for every convenience store. A girl can dream though. As I write this, I wonder if the novelty has worn off for me, or if my next visit I’ll request that we stop at Lawson for a bun, and Family Mart for a spicy chicken tender on the way from the airport or after a night out.
Now, for the chicken deets!
*Disclaimer: I’m a tough critic and not a seasoned convenience store indulger. I had to remind myself multiple times that this is convenience store chicken we are talking about.
We (me and 3 others) based our grading on the following elements:
- Breading/crunch
- Temperature at serving
- Type of meat
- Overall taste
- Was there a bun available? *Bun is important because making a sandwich with the chicken is the best way to eat it*
One thing about the crunch element… It’s worth mentioning that the timing of when they fry them up and place them in the case is a factor. I’m sure I’ve randomly come across a piece that was fried less than 10 minutes ago, versus some that have been sitting there for an hour, maybe more. That’s the game we play!
Family Mart (Boneless Fried Chicken) Price: 198 JPY / $1.43
- Unimpressive, minimal crunch. Looks can be deceiving. 5/10
- Warm
- Thigh meat, skin on. Juicy.
- Well-seasoned, tender meat. Pretty decent, didn’t ‘wow’ (has ‘wow’d’ in the past though). 7/10
- Bun available BUT had a tartar-like sauce on it. 0/10
7-11 (Boneless Fried Chicken) Price: 204 JPY / $1.47
- No crunch. Breading is different from Lawson and FM. More of a flour and water breading, like soggy tempura. My first and only bite was kind of gross. 1/10
- Not as warm as FM
- Breast meat
- Not a lot of flavor or palette pleasure. 3/5/10
- No bread available. 0/10
Lawson (Boneless Fried Chicken) Price: 204 JPY / $1.47
- Similar to FM, minimal crunch. 5/10
- Warm
- Thigh meat, skin on. Very fatty, kind of slimy.
- It’s seasoned, but the actual taste of the chicken and the texture overpowers the seasoning strength. 5.5/10
- Bun available. Tastes so good, fluffy kind of sweet. Like a potato bun. 10/10
After this, we were actually quite disappointed and surprised, as it seemed that every other time we had had the chicken it was better… The 7-11 was definitely a first (and last) for us. So, we decided to go back to FM (the winner this round) and try the tenders.
Family Mart spicy tender
- It wasn’t too crunchy, but it was firm. 8.5/10
- Warm
- Breast meat, though wasn’t dry at all. Tender, juicy, but not wet like the thigh meat had been.
- Was a little spicy, the spice flavor was good, a taste of something other than the spice. Some convenience store spice magic-making in the back room. 9/10
- Bun available BUT had a tartar-like sauce on it. 0/10
Family Mart regular tender
- Less crunch and firmness than the spicy tender. 7.5/10
- Warm
- Same as spicy.
- The flavor wasn’t as good as the spicy, or even the regular (thigh meat), because it was more of just a chicken taste. Achieved a better mouth sensation than the FM thigh meat, and from the other stores. 7.5/10
- Bun available BUT had a tartar-like sauce on it. 0/10
So, what we suggest to you: Family Mart tenders on Lawson buns! And breast is best!
If these results don’t impress you, there’s a whole lot of other food at these stores that are worth a taste test. I really like the pickled plum onigiri, kelp onigiri, marinated bamboo shoots, and all the fun alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. People love the egg salad sandwiches (including Mr. Bourdain), but I’m not there yet.
I can’t say that I’m, now, so enlightened that I endorse convenience store-prepared food back home in America, or elsewhere as something habitual. But when in Japan, you must experience it. I also can’t say that my taste test will ring true for every location, but maybe it can serve as a guide or a nudge.
Traveling is many things to me. But recently I realized that it’s also a token of eating freedom. Because I know, that to experience the land where I am, I have to eat the food, I want to eat like the locals, I must put away my eating discriminations (at least the large majority). And I’m so grateful for the opportunity.