Upon my arrival at my first hotel in Dublin, I began researching restaurants. I could research restaurants forever. It’s the rabbit hole I will fall down happily and without notice. Host kept catching my eye, so I decided to grab a taxi and head over.
The interior, intimate yet airy, and a menu with a good font and simple descriptions, spoke to me. Host exceeded my expectations. I arrived and was greeted at the door. I had made a reservation for one and was seated immediately at the bar. The place settings are simple and visually appealing. The menus are paper, printed for each meal service, and in different colors and dimensions. It makes you want to look at them. No boring menus here. A good, simple, changing menu means you get orders quicker because people want to look at it.
I began my meal with a glass of Fattoria di San Lorenzo, Brunello, Marche ’18 (€13)- a Montepulciano and Sangiovese blend. A good dry wine, full, flavorful, pleasant. I made easy conversation with the man who sat me, and we decided that between the Fried Squid & Padrone Peppers (which I could smell wafting throughout the restaurant) and the Buratta, Italian Nectarines & White Balsamic I should 100% get the latter. Shortly after, I was given a small triangle of fresh focaccia and pungent EVOO.
The Buratta was beautiful. When I cut it, the cream oozed out. It was honestly sexy. I’ll replay it for years to come. Easily the best burrata I’ve ever had. Have you read my Belotti review? Better than that. Unsurprising, as either, it’s from Italy (which Ireland is much closer to than Oakland), or it’s local. It was rich, with a fresh tang. Served with the sweet, end-of-season nectarines, it was like peaches and cream, only better. The mint leaves give it a coolness, and the EVOO is light in flavor, bathing the nectarine slices in silk.
Pre-entrée arriving, I ordered a glass of the Didier Desvignes, Fleurie, Beaujolais ’20 (€11). A Gamay varietal, with strawberry and sweet flowers on the nose. I find it magical that a glass of wine can smell like a basket of good things.
My entrée, the Pumpkin Cappellacci with Walnuts & Sage (€15) arrived. Each cappellacci was nestled in a shallow bath of golden butter sauce. First things first– taste the sauce. The butter flavor was so deep. It was sagey, perfectly salted. The cappellacci is firm in exactly the places that need to be for fresh and respectfully cooked pasta. Once you’re nearing the end of the dish, it’s mandatory to take that fresh focaccia and swipe it all in the butter sauce- heaven. The menu changes daily, but according to John, it’s the one dish that has stayed on the menu for the past several years.
The space has good energy and is alluring. High ceilings, white walls, and rustic wooden flooring. The exposed piping gives it an industrial feel. The white walls, and green tiles behind the bar gives off a ‘coolness’. But the service, the lighting, and the smells give it so much warmth, especially as you duck in from the chilly Irish weather. There’s just this vibe of ease. I’m a big fan of the open floor plan, including the kitchen. You can watch the chefs spin their magic, and they can watch you enjoy their creations.
When in Dublin, Host is an absolute must. Be sure to make a reservation.
Link to Host’s website: https://hostrestaurant.ie/
(Edit: I went back to Host again on my last night in Dublin. It didn’t disappoint. I got the same Beaujolais wine, Pumpkin Cappellacci, Cacio e Pepe, dover sole filet, rump steak (aka tri-tip), potato wedges, and a leafy green salad with parmesan and radish shavings. The fish was the star of the show. It was a perfect filet, probably poached or steamed, dressed in olive oil, butter, and lemon, and topped with very finely chopped chives and parsley. It was salty and flavorful but not over the top. I doubt anything you order at Host will disappoint.)
Sounds amazing